Fixing a climbing wall to brick, block and stud

The holds are the visible part. The accident you are trying not to build is the frame leaving the wall, or the wall leaving the house. This page describes the checks. It does not give you a resin recipe, a hole depth, or a bolt that is "enough". Those numbers live on the fixing maker's datasheet for a named substrate, and on a drawing someone competent has signed for your room.

Brick and concrete block

Solid brick and dense block are what most masonry anchors are tested in. The datasheet names the drill bit, the embedment, the edge distance and the load the manufacturer is prepared to publish for that base material. Your job, before any of that, is to know which material you have.

Drill into the brick or the block, not the mortar joint. The joint is the weak line, especially in older lime mortar.
Soft red brick, hollow block and a rubble-filled wall are not "brick" in the sense a sleeve-anchor packet means. If you cannot tell, stop and ask someone who can.
A cavity wall has an outer leaf, a gap and an inner leaf. A long fixing that bridges the cavity can be a damp path and may be holding on the leaf you did not mean. That is a builder's decision.
Engineering brick and dense concrete block behave differently from a Victorian garden wall. The anchor maker's table is only valid for the row you are actually in.

The usual pattern for a home wall is a timber frame anchored to the masonry, with the plywood screwed to the frame. The anchors see the pull-out from an overhang as well as the weight. Steeper angles ask more of the top row. That is why "it is only a few holds" is the wrong description of a 40° panel.

Resin anchors and shield anchors both appear in makers' ranges. Which one is a match for your brick is printed on their technical sheet, along with the temperature and the hole condition they assume. Copying a diameter from a forum post skips the only document that matters.

Stud walls

A stud wall is vertical timbers, usually 47 mm thick CLS in a modern house, with plasterboard screwed to them. The plasterboard's job is to look flat. A climbing wall fixed only to the board will leave the board.

Finding the studs and screwing into them is the minimum for a light, vertical hangboard, and even that wants a stud you have actually found, not a knot of plaster. An overhanging bouldering panel is beyond "a few screws into studs" unless a builder has looked at the stud sizes, the noggins, and where the load goes at the floor and the ceiling.

Party walls and flat partitions add someone else's home to the consequence. The loft and spare-room guide is the same warning for joists.

Freestanding, when the wall is the wrong wall

If the masonry is unknown or the stud wall is a partition, a freestanding frame moves the argument from "will this bolt hold in this brick" to "will this frame stay upright, and will this floor take the feet". It is often the better project. It is still a structural project. The base has to resist tipping into the room. Adjustable commercial frames publish a footprint and still tell you to have an engineer confirm the building. See the DIY, kit or board page for one published example of that footprint.

When to stop and hire the check

Get a competent builder, and an engineer if they ask for one, when any of these are true:

The panel is overhanging, especially at the 25° to 40° angles system boards use.
You are in a loft, a room in a roof, or a flat.
The wall is hollow, cavity, stone, or you simply cannot name it.
The frame is freestanding.
You are cutting, notching or drilling joists to make the shape fit.

A hold spun on a T-nut is an annoyance. A frame that peels off a party wall is not. The materials guide covers the plywood and the T-nuts once the frame has somewhere honest to stand.